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Dnevna jed: Michelinov vodič daje zvezdico napačni restavraciji

Dnevna jed: Michelinov vodič daje zvezdico napačni restavraciji


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Michelinov vodič daje zvezdico napačni restavraciji

The Kavarna Bouche à Oreille v Bourgesu, Francija, je bil prejšnji teden, po Michelinov vodnik po nesreči mu je dal zvezdo, po poročanju The Telegraph. Michelinova zvezda bi pravzaprav morala iti v veliko bolj ljubko restavracijo, imenovano tudi Bouche à Oreille, v Boutervilliersu, blizu Pariz. "Nenadoma smo se pohiteli z nog," je za Telegraph povedala lastnica Véronique Jacquet. »Prihajali so novinarji, nato pa me je sin poklical iz Pariza, kjer živi. Skoraj je umrl od smeha. " Napaka se je zgodila le na spletnem mestu Michelin Guide, ne pa tudi v tiskani izdaji, vendar je bila dovolj, da je povzročila zmedo.

Papež vsem naroči, naj med obroki prenehajo pisati

Mobilni telefoni so bistveni del življenja mnogih ljudi, vendar papež želi mlade pospravite jih med večerjo. Po poročanju The Local, v petek Papež Frančišek nagovarjal mlado množico na univerzi v Rim, ko jim je povedal, da je govoril po telefonu med večerjo bi uničil družbo. "Ko smo za mizo, ko se pogovarjamo z drugimi po telefonu, se začne vojna, ker ni dialoga," je dejal. Papež je zbranim mladim tudi povedal, da so današnji otroci preveč ležerni s svojimi manire bolj bi morali paziti, da bodo tišji, manj govorili in bolj poslušali ljudi okoli sebe.

Po raziskavi Margarita Day 20 odstotkov Američanov ljubi Margarite

Državni dan Margarite je 22. februarja in po raziskavi, ki jo je opravilo 1.000 ljudi NationalToday.com, eden od petih Američani je samooklicana ljubiteljica margarite. Le 10 odstotkov jih je reklo, da niso ljubitelji tega koktajl, 7 odstotkov pa jih je poročalo, da nikoli niso poskusili a margarita. Kar zadeva, kako Američani jemljejo svoje margarite, jih ima 14 odstotkov raje zamrznjeno v nasprotju z 8 odstotki, ki jim je všeč na skalah - ker preostalih 78 odstotkov trdi, da imajo tako radi margarite, se ne morejo odločiti, kaj je boljše.

Japonska izumlja namaz za kavo za toast

Premakni se avokado in Nutella: Japonska je izumil način, kako to narediti ljudem namažite kavo neposredno na toast zjutraj. Po poročanju Rocket News 24, Japonsko podjetje Megmilk Snow Brand Company slovi po hladnem, mlečnem kava pijača, ki je že 55 let eden najbolj priljubljenih izdelkov podjetja. Zdaj je podjetje kavni napitek spremenilo v namaz, podoben Nutelli. Zasnovan je za nošenje zdravica, kruh, in peciva, in celo poročajo, da je s kofeinom.

Stranke morajo v tej razočarani kavarni doplačati za polnjenje svojih telefonov

Ste bili kdaj krivi, da ste kupili eno majhno kava v kavarni in sedite nekaj ur, da napolnite telefon? Starbucks lahko zagotovi brezplačne brezžične polnilne postaje, ampak ena kavarna Dunaj je naveličani strank, ki uporabljajo njihov sok. The Kavarna Terrassen se nahaja v Hundertwasserhausu, znamenito pisanem Avstrijski znamenitosti, ki jo je oblikoval pokojni umetnik Friedensreich Hundertwasser, in zaračuna 1 evro (približno 1,07 USD) za vsako stranko, ki telefon polni več kot 15 minut. "Jaz vodim kavarno, ne internetne kavarne," je lastnica Galina Pokorny je za Reuters povedal. "Vse bolj je ekstremno. Ljudje pridejo in mislijo, da je vse dostopno in brezplačno ... Zjutraj niti zastonj ne odprete oči."


Michelin prevzame mesto in nekaterim daje slab okus

Še več, nekaj dragocenih Newyorčanov je celo videlo prvi Michelinov vodič, ki bo ocenjeval mestne restavracije: jutri bo naprodaj za 16,95 USD. Toda že v inbred petrijevki, ki je Gotham 's foodie mélange, je nov vodnik vzrok célèbre.

& quotSvet restavracij je bučen. Ljudje komaj čakajo, da pridejo v roke knjige, «je dejal Malcolm M. Knapp, katerega svetovalno podjetje v restavracijah nosi njegovo ime. & quotToda niso zmagali 't se nujno ne strinjajo s knjigo. Kakšno drugo reakcijo bi pričakovali od Newyorčanov? & Quot

Novi vodič ocenjuje 507 restavracij, le 39 jih je prejelo oznako z eno, dvema ali tremi zvezdicami.

Bien sûr, za nekatere restavracije je bila bogata rdeča naslovnica Michelina kulinarična zastava, ki se je mahala na pregovornega bika. & quotPozabljamo na svoje mesto, samo poglejte seznam odličnih restavracij, ki niso bile označene z zvezdico, & quot; je dejal Tony May, lastnik italijanske restavracije San Domenico v Central Parku South, ki ima dve zvezdici iz New York Timesa in je bila ocenjena letos med najboljšimi 10 restavracijami v mestu po reviji New York. Je na seznamu Michelin, vendar ni z zvezdico.

& quotTe izbire so diskreditacija samega Michelinovega vodiča po vsem svetu, "je dejal gospod May," ker bodo ljudje iz Evrope dolgoročno razočarani nad podeljenimi ocenami. & quot

Pon Dieu, nekateri so celo zaznali pridih francoske arogancije in zatrtost samega New Yorka. "Nobenega zdravega sladokusca ni dvoma, da je to mesto restavracij št. 1 na svetu in to zaradi naše velike raznolikosti," je dejal Bob Lape, tedenski kritik hrane za Crain & New York Business in dnevni kritik WCBS-AM. & quotTako pa nas poskušajo zmanjšati. V kategoriji zvezd ni Kitajcev, Mehičanov, Grkov, Špancev, Indijcev, Tajcev in Vietnamcev. & Quot

Dodal je: & quot Od kod prihajajo? Francija, predvidevam. & Quot

Jean-Luc Naret, vodnik 's, je vztrajal, da "vsekakor obstaja pozitiven odziv", in dejal, da "tukaj ne prihajamo arogantno, ampak prihajamo ponižno." Menimo, da je raznolikost kulinaričnih izkušenj New Yorka zelo dobro zastopana. & Quot

& quot; Vodnik ni v kamnu, & quot; je rekel. & quotLjudje si morajo to zapomniti. & quot Vsako leto se bo revidiralo.

Toda g. Lape je bežna analiza pokazala, da je "quotit močno francosko popačen." G. Naret je vztrajal, da "quotwe ne iščeta nacionalnosti kuharja, ampak tistega, kar je na krožniku." Rekel je, da so restavracije s tremi zvezdicami & quotare niso francoski. Razvili so se. & Quot

Certainement, vodnik je našel podporo, zlasti med favoriziranimi, kot je Joseph Bastianich, lastnik Babbo in Spotted Pig, ki sta osvojila samske zvezde. "Veseli smo, da jih imamo," je dejal, "vendar nihče ne razume parametrov. Težko je igrati igro, če ne poznaš pravil. & Quot

Anthony Bourdain, ki se je na splošno posvetoval s kuharjem v restavraciji Les Halles na Manhattnu, je dejal, da je njegov odziv "da je diplomacija postrežena in da se v vesolju vzpostavlja red."

& quot; Mislim, da se je Michelin zelo trudil najti udobno sredino in pravica je bila zadovoljena, & quot; je dodal. "Ducasse ni v zadregi," je rekel za Alaina Ducasseja, ki je prejel tri zvezdice, & kvota Thomas Keller dobi svoje zaslužene tri. Najboljše od vsega je, da Eric Ripert dobi trojno krono, "je o treh Michelinovih zvezdicah povedal kuharju Le Bernardina, ki je prejel tudi najvišje ocene pri vodniku Zagat in The New York Times.

Oui, restavracija gospoda Bourdaina pa je ostala brez zvezdice. & quot; Nismo pričakovali, da bomo ɽ v Michelinu, & quot; je rekel. "Mi smo generična francoska restavracija."

Gospod Knapp, svetovalec v restavracijah, je ponudil juho potrditve tistim, ki jim ni povsem jasno, zakaj bi lahko nekaj pohval francoskega proizvajalca pnevmatik s pnevmatsko maskoto prevzelo tak pomen. Za prebivalce mest in domače turiste bo Michelinov vodnik po njegovih besedah ​​imel "majhen učinek na poslovanje".

& quotV prvem letu življenja restavracije ima The New York Times večji vpliv kot kateri koli drug vodnik, vključno z Zagatom, & quot; je dejal. & quotToda sčasoma je Zagat močan. & quot

Glede na vir svojih ocen - priporočila gostov in#x27 priporočil - & quotZagat predstavlja demokracijo, Michelin pa ekskluzivnost, & quot; je dodal.

Gospodu Lapeju je dajanje quotstar eden težjih delov našega poslovanja, vendar bralci zagotovo vedo, kako to nadomestiti. & Quot

& quotNa primer, & quot; je rekel & quot; javnost meni, da ste 'rekor na splošno prijazni, bi lahko pri vašem mnenju nekaj odšteli. & quot

Ocene same pa so neizogibne. & quotPoglejte, nekdo vam bo dal oceno, tako kot se bodo valovi razbijali na plaži, & quot; je dejal gospod Bourdain.

Za najbolj strastne lovce na restavracije pa so zvezde lahko nesmiselne. & quotPrvi nočni gurmani radi pridejo tja prvič, zaradi mehkega odprtja, in zvezde so takrat prezgodnje, & quot; je povedala Joanna Pruess, avtorica kuharske knjige in svetovalka, ki je žena gospoda Lapea. & quotPotem? Zvezde mi ne pomenijo veliko - ker se pogosto ne strinjam. & Quot


Michelin prevzame mesto in nekaterim daje slab okus

Še več, nekaj dragocenih Newyorčanov je celo videlo prvi Michelinov vodič, ki bo ocenjeval mestne restavracije: jutri bo naprodaj za 16,95 USD. Toda že v inbred petrijevki, ki je Gotham 's foodie mélange, je novi vodnik vzrok célèbre.

& quotSvet restavracij je bučen. Ljudje lahko komaj čakajo, da pridejo v roke knjige, "je dejal Malcolm M. Knapp, katerega svetovalno podjetje v restavracijah nosi njegovo ime. & quotToda niso zmagali 't se nujno ne strinjajo s knjigo. Kakšno drugo reakcijo bi pričakovali od Newyorčanov? & Quot

Novi vodič ocenjuje 507 restavracij, le 39 jih je prejelo oznako z eno, dvema ali tremi zvezdicami.

Bien sûr, za nekatere restavracije je bila bogata rdeča naslovnica Michelina kulinarična zastava, ki se je mahala na pregovornega bika. & quotPozabljamo na svoje mesto, samo poglejte seznam odličnih restavracij, ki niso bile označene z zvezdico, & quot; je dejal Tony May, lastnik italijanske restavracije San Domenico v Central Parku South, ki ima dve zvezdici iz New York Timesa in je bila ocenjena letos med najboljšimi 10 restavracijami v mestu po reviji New York. Je na seznamu Michelin, vendar ni z zvezdico.

& quotTe izbire so diskreditacija samega Michelinovega vodiča po vsem svetu, "je dejal gospod May," ker bodo ljudje iz Evrope dolgoročno razočarani nad podeljenimi ocenami. & quot

Pon Dieu, nekateri so celo zaznali pridih francoske arogancije in zatrtost samega New Yorka. & quotNi za vsakega zdravega sladokusca ni dvoma, da je to mesto restavracij številka 1 na svetu, in to zaradi naše velike raznolikosti, "je dejal Bob Lape, tedenski kritik hrane Crain & New York Business in dnevni kritik WCBS-AM. & quotTako pa nas poskušajo zmanjšati. V kategoriji zvezd ni Kitajcev, Mehičanov, Grkov, Špancev, Indijcev, Tajcev in Vietnamcev. & Quot

Dodal je: & quot Od kod prihajajo? Francija, predvidevam. & Quot

Jean-Luc Naret, vodnik 's, je vztrajal, da "vsekakor obstaja pozitiven odziv", in dejal, da "tukaj ne prihajamo arogantno, ampak prihajamo ponižno." Menimo, da je raznolikost kulinaričnih izkušenj New Yorka zelo dobro zastopana. & Quot

& quot; Vodnik ni v kamnu, & quot; je rekel. & quotLjudje si morajo to zapomniti. & quot Vsako leto se bo revidiralo.

Toda g. Lape je bežna analiza pokazala, da je "quotit močno francosko popačen." G. Naret je vztrajal, da "quotwe ne iščeta nacionalnosti kuharja, ampak tistega, kar je na krožniku." Rekel je, da so restavracije s tremi zvezdicami & quotare niso francoski. Razvili so se. & Quot

Certainement, vodnik je našel podporo, zlasti med favoriziranimi, kot je Joseph Bastianich, lastnik Babbo in Spotted Pig, ki sta osvojila samske zvezde. "Veseli smo, da jih imamo," je dejal, "vendar nihče v resnici ne razume parametrov. Težko je igrati igro, če ne poznaš pravil. & Quot

Anthony Bourdain, ki se je na splošno posvetoval s kuharjem v restavraciji Les Halles na Manhattnu, je dejal, da je njegov odziv "da je diplomacija postrežena in da se v vesolju vzpostavlja red."

& quot; Mislim, da se je Michelin zelo trudil najti udobno sredino in pravica je bila zadovoljena, & quot; je dodal. "Ducasse ni v zadregi," je rekel za Alaina Ducasseja, ki je prejel tri zvezdice, & kvota Thomas Keller dobi svoje zaslužene tri. Najboljše od vsega je, da Eric Ripert dobi trojno krono, "je o treh Michelinovih zvezdicah povedal kuharju Le Bernardina, ki je prejel tudi najvišje ocene pri vodniku Zagat in The New York Times.

Oui, restavracija gospoda Bourdaina pa je ostala brez zvezdice. & quot; Nismo pričakovali, da bomo ɽ v Michelinu, & quot; je rekel. "Mi smo generična francoska restavracija."

Gospod Knapp, svetovalec v restavracijah, je ponudil juho potrditve tistim, ki jim ni povsem jasno, zakaj bi lahko nekaj pohval francoskega proizvajalca pnevmatik s pnevmatsko maskoto prevzelo tak pomen. Za prebivalce mest in domače turiste bo Michelinov vodnik po njegovih besedah ​​imel "majhen učinek na poslovanje".

"V prvem letu življenja restavracije ima New York Times večji vpliv kot kateri koli drug vodnik, vključno z Zagatom," je dejal. & quotToda sčasoma je Zagat močan. & quot

Glede na vir svojih ocen - priporočila gostov in#x27 priporočil - & quotZagat predstavlja demokracijo, Michelin pa ekskluzivnost, & quot; je dodal.

Gospodu Lapeju je dajanje quotstar eden težjih delov našega poslovanja, vendar bralci zagotovo vedo, kako to nadomestiti. & Quot

& quotNa primer, & quot; je rekel & quot; javnost meni, da ste 'rekor na splošno prijazni, bi lahko pri vašem mnenju nekaj odšteli. & quot

Ocene same pa so neizogibne. & quotPoglej, nekdo ti bo dal oceno, tako kot se bodo valovi razbijali na plaži, & quot; je dejal gospod Bourdain.

Za najbolj strastne lovce na restavracije pa so zvezde lahko nesmiselne. & quotPrvi nočni gurmani radi pridejo tja prvič, zaradi mehkega odpiranja, in zvezde so takrat prezgodnje, & quot; je povedala Joanna Pruess, avtorica kuharske knjige in svetovalka, ki je žena gospoda Lapea. & quotPotem? Zvezde mi ne pomenijo veliko - ker se pogosto ne strinjam. & Quot


Michelin prevzame mesto in nekaterim daje slab okus

Še več, nekaj dragocenih Newyorčanov je celo videlo prvi Michelinov vodič, ki bo ocenjeval mestne restavracije: jutri bo naprodaj za 16,95 USD. Toda že v inbred petrijevki, ki je Gotham 's foodie mélange, je novi vodnik vzrok célèbre.

& quotSvet restavracij je bučen. Ljudje komaj čakajo, da pridejo v roke knjige, «je dejal Malcolm M. Knapp, katerega svetovalno podjetje v restavracijah nosi njegovo ime. & quotToda niso zmagali 't se nujno ne strinjajo s knjigo. Kakšno drugo reakcijo bi pričakovali od Newyorčanov? & Quot

Novi vodič ocenjuje 507 restavracij, le 39 jih je prejelo oznako z eno, dvema ali tremi zvezdicami.

Bien sûr, za nekatere restavracije je bila bogata rdeča naslovnica Michelina kulinarična zastava, ki se je mahala na pregovornega bika. & quotPozabljamo na svoje mesto, samo poglejte seznam odličnih restavracij, ki niso bile označene z zvezdico, & quot; je dejal Tony May, lastnik italijanske restavracije San Domenico v Central Parku South, ki ima dve zvezdici iz New York Timesa in je bila ocenjena letos med najboljšimi 10 restavracijami v mestu po reviji New York. Je na seznamu Michelin, vendar ni z zvezdico.

& quotTe izbire so diskreditacija samega Michelinovega vodiča po vsem svetu, "je dejal gospod May," ker bodo ljudje iz Evrope dolgoročno razočarani nad podeljenimi ocenami. & quot

Pon Dieu, nekateri so celo zaznali pridih francoske arogancije in zatrtost samega New Yorka. "Nobenega zdravega sladokusca ni dvoma, da je to mesto restavracij št. 1 na svetu in to zaradi naše velike raznolikosti," je dejal Bob Lape, tedenski kritik hrane za Crain & New York Business in dnevni kritik WCBS-AM. & quotTako pa nas poskušajo zmanjšati. V kategoriji zvezd ni Kitajcev, Mehičanov, Grkov, Špancev, Indijcev, Tajcev in Vietnamcev. & Quot

Dodal je: & quot Od kod prihajajo? Francija, predvidevam. & Quot

Jean-Luc Naret, vodnik 's, je vztrajal, da "vsekakor obstaja pozitiven odziv", in dejal, da "tukaj ne prihajamo arogantno, ampak prihajamo ponižno." Menimo, da je raznolikost kulinaričnih izkušenj New Yorka zelo dobro zastopana. & Quot

& quot; Vodnik ni v kamnu, & quot; je rekel. & quotLjudje si morajo to zapomniti. & quot Vsako leto se bo revidiralo.

Toda g. Lape je bežna analiza pokazala, da je "quotit močno francosko popačen." G. Naret je vztrajal, da "quotwe ne iščeta nacionalnosti kuharja, ampak tistega, kar je na krožniku." Rekel je, da so restavracije s tremi zvezdicami & quotare niso francoski. Razvili so se. & Quot

Certainement, vodnik je našel podporo, zlasti med favoriziranimi, kot je Joseph Bastianich, lastnik Babbo in Spotted Pig, ki sta osvojila samske zvezde. "Veseli smo, da jih imamo," je dejal, "vendar nihče ne razume parametrov. Težko je igrati igro, če ne poznaš pravil. & Quot

Anthony Bourdain, ki se je na splošno posvetoval s kuharjem v restavraciji Les Halles na Manhattnu, je dejal, da je njegov odziv "da je diplomacija postrežena in da se v vesolju vzpostavlja red."

& quot; Mislim, da se je Michelin zelo trudil najti udobno sredino in pravica je bila zadovoljena, & quot; je dodal. "Ducasse ni v zadregi," je rekel za Alaina Ducasseja, ki je prejel tri zvezdice, & kvota Thomas Keller dobi svoje zaslužene tri. Najboljše od vsega je, da Eric Ripert dobi trojno krono, "je o treh Michelinovih zvezdicah povedal kuharju Le Bernardina, ki je prejel tudi najvišje ocene pri vodniku Zagat in The New York Times.

Oui, restavracija gospoda Bourdaina in#x27s pa je ostala brez zvezdice. & quot; Nismo pričakovali, da bomo ɽ v Michelinu, & quot; je rekel. "Mi smo generična francoska restavracija."

Gospod Knapp, svetovalec v restavracijah, je ponudil juho potrditve tistim, ki jim ni povsem jasno, zakaj bi lahko nekaj pohval francoskega proizvajalca pnevmatik s pnevmatsko maskoto prevzelo tak pomen. Za prebivalce mest in domače turiste bo Michelinov vodnik po njegovih besedah ​​imel "majhen učinek na poslovanje".

& quotV prvem letu življenja restavracije ima The New York Times večji vpliv kot kateri koli drug vodnik, vključno z Zagatom, & quot; je dejal. & quotToda sčasoma je Zagat močan. & quot

Glede na vir svojih ocen - priporočila gostov in#x27 priporočil - & quotZagat predstavlja demokracijo, Michelin pa ekskluzivnost, & quot; je dodal.

Gospodu Lapeju je dajanje quotstar eden težjih delov našega poslovanja, vendar bralci zagotovo vedo, kako to nadomestiti. & Quot

& quotNa primer, & quot; je rekel & quot; javnost meni, da ste 'rekor na splošno prijazni, bi lahko pri vašem mnenju nekaj odšteli. & quot

Ocene same pa so neizogibne. & quotPoglejte, nekdo vam bo dal oceno, tako kot se bodo valovi razbijali na plaži, & quot; je dejal gospod Bourdain.

Za najbolj strastne lovce na restavracije pa so zvezde lahko nesmiselne. & quotPrvi nočni gurmani radi pridejo tja prvič, zaradi mehkega odpiranja, in zvezde so takrat prezgodnje, & quot; je povedala Joanna Pruess, avtorica kuharske knjige in svetovalka, ki je žena gospoda Lapea. & quotPotem? Zvezde mi ne pomenijo veliko - ker se pogosto ne strinjam. & Quot


Michelin prevzame mesto in nekaterim daje slab okus

Še več, nekaj dragocenih Newyorčanov je celo videlo prvi Michelinov vodič, ki bo ocenjeval mestne restavracije: jutri bo naprodaj za 16,95 USD. Toda že v inbred petrijevki, ki je Gotham 's foodie mélange, je novi vodnik vzrok célèbre.

& quotSvet restavracij je bučen. Ljudje komaj čakajo, da pridejo v roke knjige, «je dejal Malcolm M. Knapp, katerega svetovalno podjetje v restavracijah nosi njegovo ime. & quotToda niso zmagali 't se nujno ne strinjajo s knjigo. Kakšno drugo reakcijo bi pričakovali od Newyorčanov? & Quot

Novi vodič ocenjuje 507 restavracij, le 39 jih je prejelo oznako z eno, dvema ali tremi zvezdicami.

Bien sûr, za nekatere restavracije je bila bogata rdeča naslovnica Michelina kulinarična zastava, ki se je mahala na pregovornega bika. & quotPozabljamo na svoje mesto, samo poglejte seznam odličnih restavracij, ki niso bile označene z zvezdico, & quot; je dejal Tony May, lastnik italijanske restavracije San Domenico v Central Parku South, ki ima dve zvezdici iz New York Timesa in je bila ocenjena letos med najboljšimi 10 restavracijami v mestu po reviji New York. Je na seznamu Michelin, vendar ni z zvezdico.

& quotTe izbire so diskreditacija samega Michelinovega vodiča po vsem svetu, "je dejal gospod May," ker bodo ljudje iz Evrope dolgoročno razočarani nad podeljenimi ocenami. & quot

Pon Dieu, nekateri so celo zaznali pridih francoske arogancije in zatrtost samega New Yorka. "Nobenega zdravega sladokusca ni dvoma, da je to mesto restavracij št. 1 na svetu in to zaradi naše velike raznolikosti," je dejal Bob Lape, tedenski kritik hrane za Crain & New York Business in dnevni kritik WCBS-AM. & quotTako pa nas poskušajo zmanjšati. V kategoriji zvezd ni Kitajcev, Mehičanov, Grkov, Špancev, Indijcev, Tajcev in Vietnamcev. & Quot

Dodal je: & quot Od kod prihajajo? Francija, predvidevam. & Quot

Jean-Luc Naret, vodnik 's, je vztrajal, da "vsekakor obstaja pozitiven odziv", in dejal, da "tukaj ne prihajamo arogantno, ampak prihajamo ponižno." Menimo, da je raznolikost kulinaričnih izkušenj New Yorka zelo dobro zastopana. & Quot

& quot; Vodnik ni v kamnu, & quot; je rekel. & quotLjudje si morajo to zapomniti. & quot Vsako leto se bo revidiralo.

Toda g. Lape je bežna analiza pokazala, da je "quotit močno francosko popačen." G. Naret je vztrajal, da "quotwe ne iščeta nacionalnosti kuharja, ampak tistega, kar je na krožniku." Rekel je, da so restavracije s tremi zvezdicami & quotare niso francoski. Razvili so se. & Quot

Certainement, vodnik je našel podporo, zlasti med favoriziranimi, kot je Joseph Bastianich, lastnik Babbo in Spotted Pig, ki sta osvojila samske zvezde. "Veseli smo, da jih imamo," je dejal, "vendar nihče v resnici ne razume parametrov. Težko je igrati igro, če ne poznaš pravil. & Quot

Anthony Bourdain, ki se je na splošno posvetoval s kuharjem v restavraciji Les Halles na Manhattnu, je dejal, da je njegov odziv "da je diplomacija postrežena in da se v vesolju vzpostavlja red."

& quot; Mislim, da se je Michelin zelo trudil najti udobno sredino in pravica je bila zadovoljena, & quot; je dodal. "Ducasse ni v zadregi," je rekel za Alaina Ducasseja, ki je prejel tri zvezdice, & kvota Thomas Keller dobi svoje zaslužene tri. Najboljše od vsega je, da Eric Ripert dobi trojno krono, "je o treh Michelinovih zvezdicah povedal kuharju Le Bernardina, ki je prejel tudi najvišje ocene pri vodniku Zagat in The New York Times.

Oui, restavracija gospoda Bourdaina pa je ostala brez zvezdice. & quot; Nismo pričakovali, da bomo ɽ v Michelinu, & quot; je rekel. "Mi smo generična francoska restavracija."

Gospod Knapp, svetovalec v restavracijah, je ponudil juho potrditve tistim, ki jim ni povsem jasno, zakaj bi lahko nekaj pohval francoskega proizvajalca pnevmatik s pnevmatsko maskoto prevzelo tak pomen. Za prebivalce mest in domače turiste bo Michelinov vodnik po njegovih besedah ​​imel "majhen učinek na poslovanje".

"V prvem letu življenja restavracije ima New York Times večji vpliv kot kateri koli drug vodnik, vključno z Zagatom," je dejal. & quotToda sčasoma je Zagat močan. & quot

Glede na vir svojih ocen - priporočila gostov in#x27 priporočil - & quotZagat predstavlja demokracijo, Michelin pa ekskluzivnost, & quot; je dodal.

Gospodu Lapeju je dajanje quotstar eden težjih delov našega poslovanja, vendar bralci zagotovo vedo, kako to nadomestiti. & Quot

& quotNa primer, & quot; je rekel & quot; javnost meni, da ste 'rekor na splošno prijazni, bi lahko pri vašem mnenju nekaj odšteli. & quot

Ocene same pa so neizogibne. & quotPoglej, nekdo ti bo dal oceno, tako kot se bodo valovi razbijali na plaži, & quot; je dejal gospod Bourdain.

Za najbolj strastne lovce na restavracije pa so zvezde lahko nesmiselne. & quotPrvi nočni gurmani radi pridejo tja prvič, zaradi mehkega odpiranja, in zvezde so takrat prezgodnje, & quot; je povedala Joanna Pruess, avtorica kuharske knjige in svetovalka, ki je žena gospoda Lapea. & quotPotem? Zvezde mi ne pomenijo veliko - ker se pogosto ne strinjam. & Quot


Michelin prevzame mesto in nekaterim daje slab okus

Še več, nekaj dragocenih Newyorčanov je celo videlo prvi Michelinov vodič, ki bo ocenjeval mestne restavracije: jutri bo naprodaj za 16,95 USD. Toda že v inbred petrijevki, ki je Gotham 's foodie mélange, je nov vodnik vzrok célèbre.

& quotSvet restavracij je bučen. Ljudje lahko komaj čakajo, da pridejo v roke knjige, "je dejal Malcolm M. Knapp, katerega svetovalno podjetje v restavracijah nosi njegovo ime. & quotToda niso zmagali 't se nujno ne strinjajo s knjigo. Kakšno drugo reakcijo bi pričakovali od Newyorčanov? & Quot

Novi vodič ocenjuje 507 restavracij, le 39 jih je prejelo oznako z eno, dvema ali tremi zvezdicami.

Bien sûr, za nekatere restavracije je bila bogata rdeča naslovnica Michelina kulinarična zastava, ki se je mahala na pregovornega bika. & quotPozabljamo na svoje mesto, samo poglejte seznam odličnih restavracij, ki niso bile označene z zvezdico, & quot; je dejal Tony May, lastnik italijanske restavracije San Domenico v Central Parku South, ki ima dve zvezdici iz New York Timesa in je bila ocenjena letos med najboljšimi 10 restavracijami v mestu po reviji New York. Je na seznamu Michelin, vendar ni z zvezdico.

& quotTe izbire so diskreditacija samega Michelinovega vodiča po vsem svetu, "je dejal gospod May," ker bodo ljudje iz Evrope dolgoročno razočarani nad podeljenimi ocenami. & quot

Pon Dieu, nekateri so celo zaznali pridih francoske arogancije in zatrtost samega New Yorka. "Nobenega zdravega sladokusca ni dvoma, da je to mesto restavracij št. 1 na svetu in to zaradi naše velike raznolikosti," je dejal Bob Lape, tedenski kritik hrane za Crain & New York Business in dnevni kritik WCBS-AM. & quotTako pa nas poskušajo zmanjšati. V kategoriji zvezd ni Kitajcev, Mehičanov, Grkov, Špancev, Indijcev, Tajcev in Vietnamcev. & Quot

Dodal je: & quot Od kod prihajajo? Francija, predvidevam. & Quot

Jean-Luc Naret, vodnik 's, je vztrajal, da "vsekakor obstaja pozitiven odziv", in dejal, da "tukaj ne prihajamo arogantno, ampak prihajamo ponižno." Menimo, da je raznolikost kulinaričnih izkušenj New Yorka zelo dobro zastopana. & Quot

& quot; Vodnik ni v kamnu, & quot; je rekel. & quotLjudje si morajo to zapomniti. & quot Vsako leto se bo revidiralo.

Toda g. Lape je bežna analiza pokazala, da je "quotit močno francosko popačen." G. Naret je vztrajal, da "quotwe ne iščeta nacionalnosti kuharja, ampak tistega, kar je na krožniku." Rekel je, da so restavracije s tremi zvezdicami. & quotare niso francoski. Razvili so se. & Quot

Certainement, vodnik je našel podporo, zlasti med favoriziranimi, kot je Joseph Bastianich, lastnik Babbo in Spotted Pig, ki sta osvojila samske zvezde. "Veseli smo, da jih imamo," je dejal, "vendar nihče ne razume parametrov. Težko je igrati igro, če ne poznaš pravil. & Quot

Anthony Bourdain, ki se je na splošno posvetoval s kuharjem v restavraciji Les Halles na Manhattnu, je dejal, da je njegov odziv "da je diplomacija postrežena in da se v vesolju vzpostavlja red."

& quot; Mislim, da se je Michelin zelo trudil najti udobno sredino in pravica je bila zadovoljena, & quot; je dodal. "Ducasse ni v zadregi," je rekel za Alaina Ducasseja, ki je prejel tri zvezdice, & kvota Thomas Keller dobi svoje zaslužene tri. Najboljše od vsega je, da Eric Ripert dobi trojno krono, "je o treh Michelinovih zvezdicah povedal kuharju Le Bernardina, ki je prejel tudi najvišje ocene pri vodniku Zagat in The New York Times.

Oui, restavracija gospoda Bourdaina pa je ostala brez zvezdice. & quot; Nismo pričakovali, da bomo ɽ v Michelinu, & quot; je rekel. "Mi smo generična francoska restavracija."

Gospod Knapp, svetovalec v restavracijah, je ponudil juho potrditve tistim, ki jim ni povsem jasno, zakaj bi lahko nekaj pohval francoskega proizvajalca pnevmatik s pnevmatsko maskoto prevzelo tak pomen. Za prebivalce mest in domače turiste bo Michelinov vodnik po njegovih besedah ​​imel "majhen učinek na poslovanje".

& quotV prvem letu življenja restavracije ima The New York Times večji vpliv kot kateri koli drug vodnik, vključno z Zagatom, & quot; je dejal. & quotToda sčasoma je Zagat močan. & quot

Glede na vir svojih ocen - priporočila dinerjev in#x27 priporočil - & quotZagat predstavlja demokracijo, Michelin pa ekskluzivnost, & quot; je dodal.

Gospodu Lapeju je dajanje quotstar eden težjih delov našega poslovanja, vendar bralci zagotovo vedo, kako to nadomestiti. & Quot

& quotNa primer, & quot; je rekel & quot; javnost meni, da ste 'rekor na splošno prijazni, bi lahko pri vašem mnenju nekaj odšteli. & quot

Ocene same pa so neizogibne. & quotPoglejte, nekdo vam bo dal oceno, tako kot se bodo valovi razbijali na plaži, & quot; je dejal gospod Bourdain.

Za najbolj strastne lovce na restavracije pa so zvezde lahko nesmiselne. & quotPrvi nočni gurmani radi pridejo tja prvič, zaradi mehkega odprtja, in zvezde so takrat prezgodnje, & quot; je povedala Joanna Pruess, avtorica kuharske knjige in svetovalka, ki je žena gospoda Lapea. & quotPotem? Zvezde mi ne pomenijo veliko - ker se pogosto ne strinjam. & Quot


Michelin prevzame mesto in nekaterim daje slab okus

Še več, nekaj dragocenih Newyorčanov je celo videlo prvi Michelinov vodič, ki bo ocenjeval mestne restavracije: jutri bo naprodaj za 16,95 USD. Toda že v inbred petrijevki, ki je Gotham 's foodie mélange, je novi vodnik vzrok célèbre.

& quotSvet restavracij je bučen. Ljudje komaj čakajo, da pridejo v roke knjige, «je dejal Malcolm M. Knapp, katerega svetovalno podjetje v restavracijah nosi njegovo ime. & quotToda niso zmagali 't se nujno ne strinjajo s knjigo. Kakšno drugo reakcijo bi pričakovali od Newyorčanov? & Quot

The new guide rates 507 restaurants, only 39 of which received the one-, two- or three-star designation.

Bien sûr, for some of the restaurants the rich red Michelin cover has been a culinary flag waved at the proverbial bull. "Forgetting our own place, just look at the list of great restaurants that haven't been starred," said Tony May, the owner of San Domenico, an Italian restaurant on Central Park South that has two stars from The New York Times and was rated this year among the top 10 restaurants in the city by New York magazine. It is being listed in Michelin, but not starred.

"These selections are a discredit to the Michelin guide itself, around the world," Mr. May said, "since in the long run people from Europe will be disappointed in the ratings that have been given."

Mon Dieu, some have even detected a whiff of French arrogance, and a put-down of New York itself. "There is no doubt in any sane gourmand's mind that this is the No. 1 restaurant city in the world, and that is because of our great diversity," said Bob Lape, the weekly food critic of Crain's New York Business and the daily critic of WCBS-AM. "Yet they are trying to diminish us. In the star category, there is no Chinese, no Mexican, no Greek, no Spanish, no Indian, no Thai, no Vietnamese."

He added: "Where are they coming from? France, I guess."

Jean-Luc Naret, the guide's director, insisted that "there is definitely a positive reaction so far," and said that "we are not coming here in an arrogant way, we're coming in with humility. We feel that the diversity of New York's culinary experience is very well represented."

"The guide is not set in stone," he said. "People should remember that." It will be revised every year.

But to Mr. Lape, a cursory analysis revealed that "it is strongly French skewed." Mr. Naret insisted that "we are not looking for the nationality of the chef, but at what is on the plate." He said the three-star restaurants "are not French. They have evolved."

Certainement, the guide has found support, especially among the favored, like Joseph Bastianich, an owner of Babbo and Spotted Pig, which won single stars. "We're very happy to have them," he said, "but no one really understands the parameters. It's hard to play the game when you don't know the rules."

Anthony Bourdain, consulting chef-at-large to Les Halles restaurant in Manhattan, said his reaction is "that diplomacy is served, and order is restored to the universe."

"I think Michelin tried very hard to find a comfortable middle ground, and justice was served," he added. "Ducasse is not embarrassed," he said of Alain Ducasse, who received three stars, "and Thomas Keller gets his well-deserved three. Best of all, Eric Ripert gets the triple crown," he said of the three Michelin stars to the chef of Le Bernardin, who has also received top ratings from the Zagat guide and The New York Times.

Oui, but Mr. Bourdain's restaurant went unstarred. "We had no expectation weɽ be in Michelin," he said. "We are a generic French diner."

Mr. Knapp, the restaurant consultant, offered a soupçon of validation to those who cannot quite understand why a few kudos from a French tire company with a pneumatic mascot might assume such importance. For city dwellers and domestic tourists, he said, the Michelin guide will have "little effect on business."

"In the first year of the life of a restaurant, The New York Times has a bigger impact than any other guide, including Zagat," he said. "But over time, Zagat is powerful."

Given the source of its ratings -- diners' recommendations -- "Zagat represents democracy, while Michelin represents exclusivity," he added.

To Mr. Lape, "star-giving is one of the more onerous parts of our business, but readers certainly know how to compensate."

"For example," he said, "if the public thinks you're generally kind, they might deduct something, in considering your review."

Ratings themselves, though, have an inevitability. "Look, someone is going to give you a rating, just as the waves will break on the beach," Mr. Bourdain said.

For the most passionate restaurant hunters, however, stars can be meaningless. "First-night foodies like to get there first, for the soft opening, and stars are premature at that point," said Joanna Pruess, a cookbook author and consultant, who is Mr. Lape's wife. "Afterwards? The stars don't mean much to me -- because often I don't agree."


Michelin Takes On the City, Giving Some a Bad Taste

Mais oui, precious few New Yorkers have even seen the first Michelin guide that will rate city restaurants: it goes on sale tomorrow for $16.95. But already, in the inbred petri dish that is Gotham's foodie mélange, the new guide is a cause célèbre.

"The restaurant world is abuzz. People can't wait to get their hands on the book," said Malcolm M. Knapp, whose restaurant consulting firm bears his name. "But they won't necessarily agree with the book. What other reaction would you expect from New Yorkers?"

The new guide rates 507 restaurants, only 39 of which received the one-, two- or three-star designation.

Bien sûr, for some of the restaurants the rich red Michelin cover has been a culinary flag waved at the proverbial bull. "Forgetting our own place, just look at the list of great restaurants that haven't been starred," said Tony May, the owner of San Domenico, an Italian restaurant on Central Park South that has two stars from The New York Times and was rated this year among the top 10 restaurants in the city by New York magazine. It is being listed in Michelin, but not starred.

"These selections are a discredit to the Michelin guide itself, around the world," Mr. May said, "since in the long run people from Europe will be disappointed in the ratings that have been given."

Mon Dieu, some have even detected a whiff of French arrogance, and a put-down of New York itself. "There is no doubt in any sane gourmand's mind that this is the No. 1 restaurant city in the world, and that is because of our great diversity," said Bob Lape, the weekly food critic of Crain's New York Business and the daily critic of WCBS-AM. "Yet they are trying to diminish us. In the star category, there is no Chinese, no Mexican, no Greek, no Spanish, no Indian, no Thai, no Vietnamese."

He added: "Where are they coming from? France, I guess."

Jean-Luc Naret, the guide's director, insisted that "there is definitely a positive reaction so far," and said that "we are not coming here in an arrogant way, we're coming in with humility. We feel that the diversity of New York's culinary experience is very well represented."

"The guide is not set in stone," he said. "People should remember that." It will be revised every year.

But to Mr. Lape, a cursory analysis revealed that "it is strongly French skewed." Mr. Naret insisted that "we are not looking for the nationality of the chef, but at what is on the plate." He said the three-star restaurants "are not French. They have evolved."

Certainement, the guide has found support, especially among the favored, like Joseph Bastianich, an owner of Babbo and Spotted Pig, which won single stars. "We're very happy to have them," he said, "but no one really understands the parameters. It's hard to play the game when you don't know the rules."

Anthony Bourdain, consulting chef-at-large to Les Halles restaurant in Manhattan, said his reaction is "that diplomacy is served, and order is restored to the universe."

"I think Michelin tried very hard to find a comfortable middle ground, and justice was served," he added. "Ducasse is not embarrassed," he said of Alain Ducasse, who received three stars, "and Thomas Keller gets his well-deserved three. Best of all, Eric Ripert gets the triple crown," he said of the three Michelin stars to the chef of Le Bernardin, who has also received top ratings from the Zagat guide and The New York Times.

Oui, but Mr. Bourdain's restaurant went unstarred. "We had no expectation weɽ be in Michelin," he said. "We are a generic French diner."

Mr. Knapp, the restaurant consultant, offered a soupçon of validation to those who cannot quite understand why a few kudos from a French tire company with a pneumatic mascot might assume such importance. For city dwellers and domestic tourists, he said, the Michelin guide will have "little effect on business."

"In the first year of the life of a restaurant, The New York Times has a bigger impact than any other guide, including Zagat," he said. "But over time, Zagat is powerful."

Given the source of its ratings -- diners' recommendations -- "Zagat represents democracy, while Michelin represents exclusivity," he added.

To Mr. Lape, "star-giving is one of the more onerous parts of our business, but readers certainly know how to compensate."

"For example," he said, "if the public thinks you're generally kind, they might deduct something, in considering your review."

Ratings themselves, though, have an inevitability. "Look, someone is going to give you a rating, just as the waves will break on the beach," Mr. Bourdain said.

For the most passionate restaurant hunters, however, stars can be meaningless. "First-night foodies like to get there first, for the soft opening, and stars are premature at that point," said Joanna Pruess, a cookbook author and consultant, who is Mr. Lape's wife. "Afterwards? The stars don't mean much to me -- because often I don't agree."


Michelin Takes On the City, Giving Some a Bad Taste

Mais oui, precious few New Yorkers have even seen the first Michelin guide that will rate city restaurants: it goes on sale tomorrow for $16.95. But already, in the inbred petri dish that is Gotham's foodie mélange, the new guide is a cause célèbre.

"The restaurant world is abuzz. People can't wait to get their hands on the book," said Malcolm M. Knapp, whose restaurant consulting firm bears his name. "But they won't necessarily agree with the book. What other reaction would you expect from New Yorkers?"

The new guide rates 507 restaurants, only 39 of which received the one-, two- or three-star designation.

Bien sûr, for some of the restaurants the rich red Michelin cover has been a culinary flag waved at the proverbial bull. "Forgetting our own place, just look at the list of great restaurants that haven't been starred," said Tony May, the owner of San Domenico, an Italian restaurant on Central Park South that has two stars from The New York Times and was rated this year among the top 10 restaurants in the city by New York magazine. It is being listed in Michelin, but not starred.

"These selections are a discredit to the Michelin guide itself, around the world," Mr. May said, "since in the long run people from Europe will be disappointed in the ratings that have been given."

Mon Dieu, some have even detected a whiff of French arrogance, and a put-down of New York itself. "There is no doubt in any sane gourmand's mind that this is the No. 1 restaurant city in the world, and that is because of our great diversity," said Bob Lape, the weekly food critic of Crain's New York Business and the daily critic of WCBS-AM. "Yet they are trying to diminish us. In the star category, there is no Chinese, no Mexican, no Greek, no Spanish, no Indian, no Thai, no Vietnamese."

He added: "Where are they coming from? France, I guess."

Jean-Luc Naret, the guide's director, insisted that "there is definitely a positive reaction so far," and said that "we are not coming here in an arrogant way, we're coming in with humility. We feel that the diversity of New York's culinary experience is very well represented."

"The guide is not set in stone," he said. "People should remember that." It will be revised every year.

But to Mr. Lape, a cursory analysis revealed that "it is strongly French skewed." Mr. Naret insisted that "we are not looking for the nationality of the chef, but at what is on the plate." He said the three-star restaurants "are not French. They have evolved."

Certainement, the guide has found support, especially among the favored, like Joseph Bastianich, an owner of Babbo and Spotted Pig, which won single stars. "We're very happy to have them," he said, "but no one really understands the parameters. It's hard to play the game when you don't know the rules."

Anthony Bourdain, consulting chef-at-large to Les Halles restaurant in Manhattan, said his reaction is "that diplomacy is served, and order is restored to the universe."

"I think Michelin tried very hard to find a comfortable middle ground, and justice was served," he added. "Ducasse is not embarrassed," he said of Alain Ducasse, who received three stars, "and Thomas Keller gets his well-deserved three. Best of all, Eric Ripert gets the triple crown," he said of the three Michelin stars to the chef of Le Bernardin, who has also received top ratings from the Zagat guide and The New York Times.

Oui, but Mr. Bourdain's restaurant went unstarred. "We had no expectation weɽ be in Michelin," he said. "We are a generic French diner."

Mr. Knapp, the restaurant consultant, offered a soupçon of validation to those who cannot quite understand why a few kudos from a French tire company with a pneumatic mascot might assume such importance. For city dwellers and domestic tourists, he said, the Michelin guide will have "little effect on business."

"In the first year of the life of a restaurant, The New York Times has a bigger impact than any other guide, including Zagat," he said. "But over time, Zagat is powerful."

Given the source of its ratings -- diners' recommendations -- "Zagat represents democracy, while Michelin represents exclusivity," he added.

To Mr. Lape, "star-giving is one of the more onerous parts of our business, but readers certainly know how to compensate."

"For example," he said, "if the public thinks you're generally kind, they might deduct something, in considering your review."

Ratings themselves, though, have an inevitability. "Look, someone is going to give you a rating, just as the waves will break on the beach," Mr. Bourdain said.

For the most passionate restaurant hunters, however, stars can be meaningless. "First-night foodies like to get there first, for the soft opening, and stars are premature at that point," said Joanna Pruess, a cookbook author and consultant, who is Mr. Lape's wife. "Afterwards? The stars don't mean much to me -- because often I don't agree."


Michelin Takes On the City, Giving Some a Bad Taste

Mais oui, precious few New Yorkers have even seen the first Michelin guide that will rate city restaurants: it goes on sale tomorrow for $16.95. But already, in the inbred petri dish that is Gotham's foodie mélange, the new guide is a cause célèbre.

"The restaurant world is abuzz. People can't wait to get their hands on the book," said Malcolm M. Knapp, whose restaurant consulting firm bears his name. "But they won't necessarily agree with the book. What other reaction would you expect from New Yorkers?"

The new guide rates 507 restaurants, only 39 of which received the one-, two- or three-star designation.

Bien sûr, for some of the restaurants the rich red Michelin cover has been a culinary flag waved at the proverbial bull. "Forgetting our own place, just look at the list of great restaurants that haven't been starred," said Tony May, the owner of San Domenico, an Italian restaurant on Central Park South that has two stars from The New York Times and was rated this year among the top 10 restaurants in the city by New York magazine. It is being listed in Michelin, but not starred.

"These selections are a discredit to the Michelin guide itself, around the world," Mr. May said, "since in the long run people from Europe will be disappointed in the ratings that have been given."

Mon Dieu, some have even detected a whiff of French arrogance, and a put-down of New York itself. "There is no doubt in any sane gourmand's mind that this is the No. 1 restaurant city in the world, and that is because of our great diversity," said Bob Lape, the weekly food critic of Crain's New York Business and the daily critic of WCBS-AM. "Yet they are trying to diminish us. In the star category, there is no Chinese, no Mexican, no Greek, no Spanish, no Indian, no Thai, no Vietnamese."

He added: "Where are they coming from? France, I guess."

Jean-Luc Naret, the guide's director, insisted that "there is definitely a positive reaction so far," and said that "we are not coming here in an arrogant way, we're coming in with humility. We feel that the diversity of New York's culinary experience is very well represented."

"The guide is not set in stone," he said. "People should remember that." It will be revised every year.

But to Mr. Lape, a cursory analysis revealed that "it is strongly French skewed." Mr. Naret insisted that "we are not looking for the nationality of the chef, but at what is on the plate." He said the three-star restaurants "are not French. They have evolved."

Certainement, the guide has found support, especially among the favored, like Joseph Bastianich, an owner of Babbo and Spotted Pig, which won single stars. "We're very happy to have them," he said, "but no one really understands the parameters. It's hard to play the game when you don't know the rules."

Anthony Bourdain, consulting chef-at-large to Les Halles restaurant in Manhattan, said his reaction is "that diplomacy is served, and order is restored to the universe."

"I think Michelin tried very hard to find a comfortable middle ground, and justice was served," he added. "Ducasse is not embarrassed," he said of Alain Ducasse, who received three stars, "and Thomas Keller gets his well-deserved three. Best of all, Eric Ripert gets the triple crown," he said of the three Michelin stars to the chef of Le Bernardin, who has also received top ratings from the Zagat guide and The New York Times.

Oui, but Mr. Bourdain's restaurant went unstarred. "We had no expectation weɽ be in Michelin," he said. "We are a generic French diner."

Mr. Knapp, the restaurant consultant, offered a soupçon of validation to those who cannot quite understand why a few kudos from a French tire company with a pneumatic mascot might assume such importance. For city dwellers and domestic tourists, he said, the Michelin guide will have "little effect on business."

"In the first year of the life of a restaurant, The New York Times has a bigger impact than any other guide, including Zagat," he said. "But over time, Zagat is powerful."

Given the source of its ratings -- diners' recommendations -- "Zagat represents democracy, while Michelin represents exclusivity," he added.

To Mr. Lape, "star-giving is one of the more onerous parts of our business, but readers certainly know how to compensate."

"For example," he said, "if the public thinks you're generally kind, they might deduct something, in considering your review."

Ratings themselves, though, have an inevitability. "Look, someone is going to give you a rating, just as the waves will break on the beach," Mr. Bourdain said.

For the most passionate restaurant hunters, however, stars can be meaningless. "First-night foodies like to get there first, for the soft opening, and stars are premature at that point," said Joanna Pruess, a cookbook author and consultant, who is Mr. Lape's wife. "Afterwards? The stars don't mean much to me -- because often I don't agree."


Michelin Takes On the City, Giving Some a Bad Taste

Mais oui, precious few New Yorkers have even seen the first Michelin guide that will rate city restaurants: it goes on sale tomorrow for $16.95. But already, in the inbred petri dish that is Gotham's foodie mélange, the new guide is a cause célèbre.

"The restaurant world is abuzz. People can't wait to get their hands on the book," said Malcolm M. Knapp, whose restaurant consulting firm bears his name. "But they won't necessarily agree with the book. What other reaction would you expect from New Yorkers?"

The new guide rates 507 restaurants, only 39 of which received the one-, two- or three-star designation.

Bien sûr, for some of the restaurants the rich red Michelin cover has been a culinary flag waved at the proverbial bull. "Forgetting our own place, just look at the list of great restaurants that haven't been starred," said Tony May, the owner of San Domenico, an Italian restaurant on Central Park South that has two stars from The New York Times and was rated this year among the top 10 restaurants in the city by New York magazine. It is being listed in Michelin, but not starred.

"These selections are a discredit to the Michelin guide itself, around the world," Mr. May said, "since in the long run people from Europe will be disappointed in the ratings that have been given."

Mon Dieu, some have even detected a whiff of French arrogance, and a put-down of New York itself. "There is no doubt in any sane gourmand's mind that this is the No. 1 restaurant city in the world, and that is because of our great diversity," said Bob Lape, the weekly food critic of Crain's New York Business and the daily critic of WCBS-AM. "Yet they are trying to diminish us. In the star category, there is no Chinese, no Mexican, no Greek, no Spanish, no Indian, no Thai, no Vietnamese."

He added: "Where are they coming from? France, I guess."

Jean-Luc Naret, the guide's director, insisted that "there is definitely a positive reaction so far," and said that "we are not coming here in an arrogant way, we're coming in with humility. We feel that the diversity of New York's culinary experience is very well represented."

"The guide is not set in stone," he said. "People should remember that." It will be revised every year.

But to Mr. Lape, a cursory analysis revealed that "it is strongly French skewed." Mr. Naret insisted that "we are not looking for the nationality of the chef, but at what is on the plate." He said the three-star restaurants "are not French. They have evolved."

Certainement, the guide has found support, especially among the favored, like Joseph Bastianich, an owner of Babbo and Spotted Pig, which won single stars. "We're very happy to have them," he said, "but no one really understands the parameters. It's hard to play the game when you don't know the rules."

Anthony Bourdain, consulting chef-at-large to Les Halles restaurant in Manhattan, said his reaction is "that diplomacy is served, and order is restored to the universe."

"I think Michelin tried very hard to find a comfortable middle ground, and justice was served," he added. "Ducasse is not embarrassed," he said of Alain Ducasse, who received three stars, "and Thomas Keller gets his well-deserved three. Best of all, Eric Ripert gets the triple crown," he said of the three Michelin stars to the chef of Le Bernardin, who has also received top ratings from the Zagat guide and The New York Times.

Oui, but Mr. Bourdain's restaurant went unstarred. "We had no expectation weɽ be in Michelin," he said. "We are a generic French diner."

Mr. Knapp, the restaurant consultant, offered a soupçon of validation to those who cannot quite understand why a few kudos from a French tire company with a pneumatic mascot might assume such importance. For city dwellers and domestic tourists, he said, the Michelin guide will have "little effect on business."

"In the first year of the life of a restaurant, The New York Times has a bigger impact than any other guide, including Zagat," he said. "But over time, Zagat is powerful."

Given the source of its ratings -- diners' recommendations -- "Zagat represents democracy, while Michelin represents exclusivity," he added.

To Mr. Lape, "star-giving is one of the more onerous parts of our business, but readers certainly know how to compensate."

"For example," he said, "if the public thinks you're generally kind, they might deduct something, in considering your review."

Ratings themselves, though, have an inevitability. "Look, someone is going to give you a rating, just as the waves will break on the beach," Mr. Bourdain said.

For the most passionate restaurant hunters, however, stars can be meaningless. "First-night foodies like to get there first, for the soft opening, and stars are premature at that point," said Joanna Pruess, a cookbook author and consultant, who is Mr. Lape's wife. "Afterwards? The stars don't mean much to me -- because often I don't agree."


Poglej si posnetek: Service at 3 Michelin star Victors Gourmet-Restaurant Schloss Berg (Maj 2022).


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